Brazilian Fresh Tuna Ceviche

[kirra]

Brazilian Fresh Tuna Ceviche

Many home cooks often think of the fresh chili as a fiery one-note-Charlie, lacking flavor or complexity and supplying only one salient tone to a dish—intense heat. They couldn't be more wrong. From the sharp, ephemeral, and bright citrus highlights of the spicy serrano to the smoky and deep tobacco tones of the dried guajillo, chilies are deep and powerful ingredients, lending a variety of flavors to any dish. Chilies are one of the many foods that Columbus brought back to Europe from the New World. Usually, the smaller the chili, the higher the level of capsaicin, the compound that dictates the burn. It is more prevalent in seeds and membranes, so cutting them out can neuter a chili.

Ingredients:

2 lbs. day-boat center-cut bluefin tuna, free of connective tissue and skin
2 dried ancho chilies
1 dried guajillo chili
1 dried pasilla negre chili
1 T. tomato paste
1 T. vegetable oil
1 fresh serrano chili, minced
1 t. sea salt
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 red onion or sweet onion,
halved and sliced paper thin
2 tomatoes, diced
3 ribs celery, thinly sliced
1 c. hearts of palm (canned is fine), thinly sliced
3 T. salt-packed capers, soaked, rinsed, drained
1/2 c. fresh mint and
cilantro leaves
1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

Preparation:

Dice tuna into small cubes and reserve in fridge. Place dried chilies in bowl, pour boiling water over them, and soak 30 minutes. Drain, discard stems and seeds. Fry dried peppers and tomato paste briefly in vegetable oil over medium heat. Place contents of pan, serrano chili, sea salt, and zest in mortar, grind with pestle. Combine all ingredients in bowl. Rest salad, refrigerated, 20 minutes. Serve with toasted bread. Serves 6–8 as appetizer.